Double and Single Breasted Coats

Both double- and single-breasted coats in the early 1940s had squared shoulders, largish collars and revers. Pockets could be of the patch variety as well as the slit type, which could be set at an angle and have flaps. Dolman sleeves were seen as much as the set-in type. Swagger coats could be full or three quarter length. Short box-shaped coats were also popular.

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Informal Wear

Teagowns in the 1940s were, if worn, generally long sleeved with long skirts. However this fashion declined as the pace of life generally speeded up. Housecoats however were popular, made of a warm material, and these gradually replaced the teagown for informal evening wear. At first housegowns were worn for comfort after a day’s work, and were ground length with a zip or button fastening, either to the waist and stepped into, or down to the hem. They were made in various styles, from the Princess style to loose versions. They could have belts or sashes and pockets were a useful addition. Sleeves could be of any length and anything from straight and tight fitting to bishop style.

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Blouses

Blouses could be long and worn over skirts or trousers in Russian style with a belt, or basqued and worn either over or tucked into the skirts. They could even be pouched over the top of a skirt. Blouses were also made in a waistcoat style without sleeves, or made like shirts.

Afternoon and evening blouses were made in more elaborate ways, with frilled collars and cuffs if the sleeves were long. Jabots, tucks or fine pleating down the front, either horizontal, vertical or diagonal, as well as yokes were very popular.

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Styles of Jackets

In 1947 when the New Look was so popular, the jackets became slightly longer again with padding at the hips, large pockets and waists more accentuated. Padding at the shoulders became less prominent as rounded and softer shaping appeared. The front edges of the jacket at the hem were also more often to be seen with rounded corners. Alternatively flared basques were often added to the jackets at the waist. Jackets when closed high at the neck often only had small collars that could be rounded.

By about 1950 classical style jackets were popular. These had stepped collars and revers and could be either single- or double-breasted. They usually had slit pockets with flaps and were fitted at the waist. Straight or box type jackets were also worn as well as bloused jackets with belts.

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Jumpers and Knitwear

How to dress well? It is a issue concerned by people for a long time. During the War, especially during air raids, knitting and crocheting by hand became really popular: pastimes, as it not only kept people’s minds off the War, but also saved clothing coupons. Old knitted garments could be unravelled and knitted up into new ones, sometimes with extra wool added, making the sleeves in a contrasting color perhaps, or knitting in designs.

Twin sets comprising a plain short-sleeved jumper, usually with a round collar, and a matching long-sleeved cardigan which usually buttoned high to the neck, were extremely popular.
Jumpers were not only made of wool, but could be of silk or cotton. They could be hand or machine knitted or crocheted in open lacework designs as well as in various patterns and colours. Necklines could be high with roll collars, or cowls, V necks, polo or crew necks. Shoulders, during the War years, were very often padded. Sleeves were either set in or of the Raglan type.

Cardigans and jumpers were made to match in both colour and design; cardigans could also be worn over dresses or blouses. They might be buttoned high to the neck with a plain round neckline or have a small Peter Pan type collar. A V opening was also fashionable, either with or without a collar. Revers were also sometimes seen. Lumber jackets or windcheaters were generally of a thicker wool and had high necks buttoning down the front or on one side from the shoulder to an attached waistband. ‘Sloppy Joe’ was a name given to a type of loose knitted cardigan — more of a short coated style in fact. Good upswept hairstyles make the outfit fine.

Boleros, dresses, suits and skirts could all be of knitted materials. From about 1945 Fair Isle patterns, which had been popular in the 1920s but lost favour in the 1930s, again became fashionable for all knitwear.

From the end of the 1940s cardigans and jumpers became longer. Evening blouses, usually of a silky openwork design, often had low square dfcolletages. Knitted dresses and skirts could even be pleated, or the knitted design so made as to simulate pleating.

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